Amazing Andamans - Day 1

Reaching the Islands

Where you going next? – a innocuous question to Medha who was down in Bangalore for a chance weekend saw me packing my bags for a holiday to the Andamans with a group of people I had never met before, except her of course, and the confidence of a non-swimmer. At the time, the idea of a holiday was more exciting than the venue. Everything fell into place – cheap tickets, holidays, hotel bookings, the works – everything fit together like a 1000 piece jigsaw puzzle.


A land of mystery, wonder and shrouded with an aura of exotic wilderness beckoned us to its myriad islands – islands that stun you with their beauty, simplicity and just breath-taking landscapes. Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away. The islands ensure that you hold your breath several times almost willing you to believe that such beauty is impossible.


Waiting at Chennai airport, I remove the slick leather bound journal gifted to me by a dear friend, Natalia, to write in during my trip. Everyone was tired of me scribbling on scraps of paper that went missing or had to be pieced together as a collage later. I was determined to capture my thoughts as the days went by. Fortunately, I had Medha, my partner in crime & photography, to capture the images.


Life gives us but one chance,
To give it all we got
Let’s live every moment
Before in the web of worry we get caught.

Waiting at the airport

For our holiday to begin

Will it be full of wonder

My mind thinks from within.

Palm fringed beaches
Sun kissed sands
A sea of eternity
Living within the sands of time.

A sense of excitement begins
My flight on the speaker they announce
A secret smile plays
A song at the corner of my mouth.

The airport is full of strangers
Everyone on a journey of their own
Some with smiles , others with frowns
Will this journey be the beginning of something bigger?

I write with full of hope
Of our holiday that has begun
May it be all that we want it to be
May it bring us back safe home to our families.

As I board the flight, the rains that have been drenching Chennai suddenly stop and the sun comes out. What better omen to start out than with nature itself giving you such a wonderful bon voyage message. On entering the flight, I find Medha and myself at the two ends of the aircraft – She right at the back and me right up front. A wave is all we manage as we settle down for our two hour flight, all set to leave the rains behind and move travel towards clear skies.


The flight is full of different travelers, each with their own quirks and make for interesting observations. Tour Groups that carry their own food and conversation – both of which they had no qualms in sharing or opining about across aisles in the aircraft; the quintessential honeymooners looking into each other’s eyes with new found love and commitment, anxious groups that kept exclaiming every time there was slight wobble or shake; the seasoned travellers who were reading their Frommers exchanging notes on where the best places to stay where and finally, people like us who felt like Columbus – off to explore unknown lands and ready for adventure.

The sight from the aircraft window was like watching a quilt being created live. If you looked straight ahead out of the window, white clouds where weaving designs against a blue background. Looking down one saw the black shadows of the clouds creating magic of their own against the blue-grey ripples of the sea. The aircraft feeling left out tried hard to include its shadow into the complicated designs.

The Cotton balls ... on the flight to Port Blair.

As the pilot announced that we were beginning our descent, I started looking out for our first “sighting”. It took a while and then there she was - a perfect island, waves gently lapping her shores, vegetation so thick that you could feel the trees competing with each other for reaching towards the skies and turquoise blue waters that surrounded her. The image reminded one of a lady proudly preening her jewels - a necklace of sapphires draped around an emerald setting against a lovely cream neck.

The Emerald Turquoise waters of the Andaman Sea

Oohs & Aahs were heard at regular intervals followed by awe inspiring silence as everyone in the plane was wrapped in a visual canvas, the islands presented themselves to us as a gift. Each one was different. Each one forcing us to make a mental note to come back and explore them at length.

Finally, Port Blair came into view – an island as pretty as the others but with so much more habitation. We landed at the naval airport and exited the aircraft to a warm 31 degrees. We went from 19 degrees to 25 degrees to 31 degrees in a matter of hours.

Glares and hats on, sunscreen applied, we were ready to set the Andamans ablaze and begin our holiday with lots of gusto.

The Ferry ride from Port Blair to Havelock lasts 2.5 hours by the Government Ferry and 1.5 hours by the private one. I was all set for the ride across the sea - nausea medicine, food, water et all. Every new island that loomed on the horizon drew a fresh set of cheers and calls of wonder from us tourists as the locals looked on with smiles of amusement.

Medha & I escaped the confines of the A/C cabin at regular intervals to explore the ship, take in a few breaths of fresh sea air (smacking our lips to taste the salt), do the touristy thing and click pics but most important, we were overwhelmed and humbled by the portrait painted before us.

The water was the brightest blue and set against a picture perfect sky and the islands were filled with greenery. The coastline had an interesting feature. The shrubs that dotted it almost formed a natural hedge to the taller trees protecting them from the sea. The sunset was spectacular with the sun almost posing for the camera while darting between the clouds to create magic on the ripples of the waves.

What would you capture when your eyes fought to see all that lay before like a banquet fit for a king?

The Silver Lining

We arrive to a huge sign that says “Welcome to Havelock”...... .

And our first view of the crystal clear waters

And our first Sunset on the Islands

The short auto ride saw us go thru the market and then tiny resorts on one side of the road and fields on the other. The sea kept playing hide and seeks thru the resorts that lined the road. It was 1630 in the evening and it was already twilight. We were amazed at how quickly darkness descends on the islands.

Vinnie’s Island 

An unexpected set of thatch cottages, tents and a café called Full Moon greets you enter the property. Sam and Frodo are the most adorable dogs that give you a warm welcome. Fears are laid to rest as we are convinced that swimming is not needed for a preliminary dive. We are all set for two dives the day after.

It’s 1730 and it’s hard to believe the darkness that envelopes us in her warm embrace. We rush to sample the much praised food and can’t wait to start our explorations. Stomachs sated, Medha & I set out for a stroll. The waves gently caress our feet as we soak in the millions of stars in a moon lit night. As our eyes adjust to the surroundings, we begin to realize – this is surreal. The ocean for as far as the eye could see seemed to call out gently, cajoling you to enter and surround yourself with peace and tranquility. The beach was strewn with sea weed, drift wood and not an iota of garbage. It was a pleasure to walk amongst such pristine surroundings and we soon ditched our shoes and began walking barefoot, savoring the feel of the sand and water. We felt like Robinson Crusoe, marooned on an island, enjoying time pass while eternity stood still.

Sitting in an abandoned boat, making new friends, we realized that life and nature were offering us paradise on a platter. Life was now officially altered. You connected with something so primal that the rat race was now to appreciate, understand and enjoy what nature had to offer. Whether we wear the corporate look or not, it’s vital to connect with the Great Spirit and rejoice. In nature, with Nature. It’s important to become Crusoe once in a while to find you within you while the world stops to let you be all that you can be.

Lonely I may seem..... but am a witness to many new friendships and endless conversations of an animated bunch star gazing the night away!

  Our "Been There Done That" Tips:

1. Make sure you get a window seat on the airplane. You do not want to miss your first sighting of the islands. 
2. Carry a lot of sunscreen, hats and glares. It gets really hot and you don’t want the sun to play spoilsport in your explorations. 
3. Make sure that you have your tickets for the ferry ready before hand. 
4. Ensure that you time your flight so that you make it to the jetty on time from the airport 
5. The time at the islands undergo a change. While they follow IST, they are actually a couple of hours ahead. So make sure you reach your island resort well in time. It gets dark by 1730 IST 
6. The ride is rocky so make sure you have enough medicines and mints to keep the nausea at bay.
7. Nothing is available to buy in the Government ferry. You get basic snacks in the Private Ferry 
8. Don’t miss the fresh, sea breeze hitting your face with spray and salt 
9. Ensure you travel light. The place where the baggage is stored on the ferry is below the jetty and there are usually two flights of stairs that need to be negotiated before you can hit dry land. The loaders are expensive. So travel light and ensure there are wheels to drag your stuff around.
10. Negotiate with the auto guys for the fare to the resort. Call the resort beforehand to check how much the cost would be from the jetty. Better still, have the resort pick you up.
    

Getting There:

Flights are operated regularly between Chennai, Kolkatta and Port Blair. Passenger ships also connect Kolkata, Chennai and Vishakhapatnam with Port Blair.