Amazing Andamans - Day 6

Ross Island, Lunch @ Fortune and Chidiya Tapoo

The day dawned and our prayers came true. The skies were the bluest seen ever and the Sun was shining – there was no sign of rain. The day was perfect for exploring and taking pictures. We soon gathered on the terrace for a breakfast and then caught up with the guys and then bid them farewell as they made their way back to civilization.

After breakfast, the gang of girls started out for our exploration. Hats donned and cameras charged we set off for our first destination, Ross Island - a tiny island off Port Blair that was a thriving town till recently. Set up by the British and then taken over by the Japanese. Remnants of the days gone by have been preserved and the island is now a tourist attraction. It’s very easy to imagine the British Saabs and Memsaabs living on this plush island. The layout is brilliant and the bakery on the island apparently made cakes and bread whose taste was to die for. Trust a foodie to find a bakery amongst ruins of a city on an island.  The pathways are well laid and give the island opulence. 

As we walk around the island, we come across the scene that is depicted on the back of a INR Twenty note. The scene has Mount Harriet in the background, the red and white lighthouse on Viper Island and the palm fronds in the background. Frantic attempts were immediately made to find a note to hold up against the image in front of us. That we were all suitably excited on finding this picture is an understatement.

The View on the Rs 20 Note

The church, though now in ruins, was beautiful with its tall steeples and huge windows. Situated on top of a hill, it gave a panoramic view of the island, with the beach in the background and the palatial bungalows in the front along with the other important buildings constructed to complete the town.

If only ruins could speak

Looking through... from ruins to towering palms and the vast expanse of the ocean beyond

As we climbed down the hill to the pristine beach, we realised the difference it was from the beaches we had encountered thus far. This one had little pools of water collected amongst the rocks that were spread across the water front. Access to the beach was only through a steep climb down. Then we walked back up and walked around the pond till we came to the saddest part of the island – the cemetery. The graves with detailed carvings that spoke of the people they sheltered when death came a calling. Mostly children and young lads, it was poignant to imagine them dying in a foreign land so far from their homes and families. What would have started as a dream adventure for most of them would have been so abruptly and rudely as a nightmare from hell.

Emerald Turquoise waters.... blue skies and palm fringed beaches... a perfect setting for our tryst with Ross Island

The Japanese bunkers though today a tourist attraction where tourists stand and pose for photographs, remind the islanders of a period of atrocities and a lot of hurt. While the British stayed on the island like the rulers they were, the Japanese carried out unnamed atrocities on the local people. While we just sat and absorbed the history the island had seen, we all had one thought – if only the ruins could speak, what stories they would have to share. Some good, some bad, some ugly – oh! But what stories they would be!

It was time to move on. We caught the ferry and made our way back to Port Blair and then went to the Fortune Hotel for some scrumptious lunch. It was heaven to eat some amazing food with a view to die for – the sea and the sky competing for increased blue quotients and streaming into the distance for as long as you could see, huge liners making their way into the harbour, tiny islands across the horizon and of course, our beloved Havelock in the distance.

The lovely view from the Fortune Resorts... our lunch escapade

Hunger sated and a huge discussion later, the four of us made our way to Chidiya Tapoo – a spot renowned for its spectacular sunsets. It’s a long drive and we made our way through some amazing landscapes – villages, dense forests, water fronts and high hills. We arrive just as the Sun began his descent into the sea and we quickly find a spot where we can see the view and let the magic take over. Unfortunately, the clouds begin to start playing spoil sport and the hide the sun from sight. We wait for a miracle but it’s just not one of those days. 

@ Chidiya Tapu.... The Sun never really obliged us.... but for a split second..... the sky did take on the most beautiful colour in the sky

Sunset done, the moon comes out to play and gives us some amazing sights it slips in and out of the clouds and the palm fronds. We start on our long trip back and then we see diamonds – the moonlight shimmering on the open sea greets us as we a turn a corner to reach the main road. The view was too beautiful to ignore and we pull up on the side of the road to just stand and admire another marvel of nature.

The Sun gave way to the Moon lit night

We reach back where a hot home cooked meal awaits and then it’s time to reminisce of the week that was. Each of us has our own special moments that have etched a niche in our minds and our memories. We soon say our good byes as the two of us prepare for our explorations for the next day when limestone caves, a mud volcano and lots more await us. The other two set off for home.

Our “Been There, Done That” Tip

·               Tour guides organize day trips to Ross & Viper islands. Tickets can be bought on the spot

·               There is very little shade cover at Ross island and only one stall that sells water, drinks and some  
         snacks. Be prepared

·               Fortune is one of the best properties on the island and the A La Carte menu is superlative.

·               Use a taxi to get around the island. Hire one for the day.

Amazing Andamans - Day 5

Last Morning At Havelock

With great reluctance we opened our eyes on our last morning at Havelock. It was almost as if our bodies had realized we were getting ready to leave this slice of heaven and wanted to remain in a state of sleep rather than get up and depart. We made our way to the Café where the rest of the gang were all set for their dives of the day. Envious glances given, we moved to the beach to bid them adieu.

That’s when we realized that the weather had changed. Waves lashed the shore. The water that on earlier days lapped at your ankles were now near the knee and threatening to throw you off balance as they reached the shore. The clouds gathered menacingly in the distance. Our beloved “Black Tip” was no longer a stationary place where we could sit and philosophize but a boat that rocked, dipped and strained at her anchors, willing to be let loose at sea.

As we waved goodbye from the shore, we suddenly realized the menacing clouds that were in the distance were now suddenly upon us. We then figured it was not just the clouds that were approaching us but a rainstorm. We fled to the shelter of the café before nature unleashed her fury on us. It was almost like nature was acting like a petulant child throwing a tantrum on us leaving.

We learn only later that it was beginning of a cyclone. Neelam had started to brew.

 

In that one moment... nature synchronized itself to be in the perfect shades of Blue! This was the first signs of Neelam!

Battling spouts of rain, sadness of leaving our slice of heaven and trying to find our ferry, we make our way to jetty and collapse in our seats. No VIP treatment this time around. Fortunately, the First Officer recognizes us and we are invited up to the deck. We stand in silence as we pass what is now familiar territory – the mangroves, the little lighthouse, Radhanagar beach. Everyone is so caught up with the ebbing sight of Havelock that no one notices the change in movement of the boat. Soon we are in a natural roller-coaster. Fortunately, my medicines put me in an uneasy slumber and I wake as we near Port Blair.

We could truly gaze at this forever.... till a downpour forced us to get inside.... returning from Havelock to Port Blair

 We make our way to Captain Noble’s house – Tanaz’s mom’s house which was now a homestay. 

Adventures in Port Blair – Day 1               

We soon found our way to Captain Noble’s home – a picturesque little cottage overlooking the bay. We had a choice of rooms as the rest of the gang were only arriving later at night. We took one on top which was part of the original home. A hot meal of Dhansak, brown rice and salad followed by some scrumptious homemade ice cream downed, we were ready to start exploring the island.

We found ourselves with a lot of options and hardly anytime. We started off with walking down to the Naval Museum. A little building that takes you through the history of the islands and gives you a bird’s eye view of the culture, inhabitants and fish. The museum has a huge skeleton of a blue whale as you enter and you are stopped in your tracks with the imagery in your mind as you picture the whale in all its glory. The museum also has a video with a running commentary that shows the islands in a very different light. There is a small aquarium on the premises that has a few species. Though there is a sign that prohibits photography, quite a few of the visitors take perverse pleasure in clicking pics of the fishes, using the flash that has them scurrying in their tanks. Fresh from our diving experience, it seemed criminal to keep these beautiful creatures in such small tanks. While most tanks had a couple of fishes, so that they could keep each other company, some of the tanks had singular occupants. A pair of parrot fishes occupied one tank. One of the parrot fish would swim to one end of the tank and then head with full force to the other end butting his head against the glass. He did this again and again. It was heart rending to see them trying to figure out where they were. 

Another room was filled with corals and shells, extinct and endangered, which would have been incredible to view under the sea.  On the wall are the shells of three turtles and their story before they were killed for their shell. When will we stop this carnage? I wonder if people who buy these “artifacts” realise what’s at stake. Wonder how they would feel if the situation were reversed. If it was our species being hunted and driven out of our homes – would be so casual about everything? Would we take things for granted and just shift the responsibility to someone else?

The need for us to preserve the islands and its beautiful marine life just hit you in the face as you grasped that if we continued on this path of self-destruction, very soon the only way to see these wonders of nature would be in tanks like this.

In spite of all of this, the naval museum is a must visit during the trip and am glad we went. The rain continued to play hide and seek. We then decided to go the Cellular Jail. We both had heard a lot about it and were keen to go and pay our respects at this national monument of bravery, courage and patriotism. 

Situated on top of a hill, we came up to a huge building where throngs of people had braved the rains and had come to see such an important piece of history. Kaala Paani is something all Indians are familiar with but the extent of the brutality only reveals itself when you enter the building.  As you enter you see words of our freedom fighters inscribed on the walls as you are led to the halls that have the names, photos and details of the “crimes” of the people imprisoned in the jail. Every photo looks back at you with a defiance and with a sense of pride. 

People were breaking down as they passed the rooms, filled with row after row of poignant images. Do we realise what people gave up for us to walk around and live our lives the way we do? Imprisoned on what seemed almost like whims of the British, the crimes some of the prisoners were miniscule – breaking a police cordon, coming in front of a British High Ranking Official, talking to a group of friends, the list is endless. Silence screamed in the halls as people walked by the photos of people killed by force feeding as they fasted for better living conditions. I have goosebumps as I scribe these lines. I cannot imagine the mind-set of the British officials to treat fellow humans in the manner that they did. The Cellular Jail was a startling reflection of the phrase, “Power Corrupts”. It didn’t get any worse. Escape was impossible and prisoners knew they were signing away their life when they were sentenced to Kaala Paani. They knew it would be the last time they would see their families, their country and live life as they knew it.

The Sky also shed tears with us as we tried to make sense of Kaala Pani

The next hall had the history of the Cellular Jail. The devices used to mete out punishment sent shivers down your spine. As you entered the main courtyard, a flame is kept alive in honour of the inmates. While I am sure, the British wanted to create an atmosphere of terror, fear and subjugation within the four walls of the prison – what you get when you walk into the courtyard surrounded by countless cells which would have housed these brave men and women is a sense of pride, self-esteem and confidence that they would overcome all perils and sufferings and win freedom for their motherland. They would survive and survive on their terms and conditions. A marble pillar stands in a corner in quiet contemplation of the days that were.  

Groups of people walk past the newspapers of a bygone era and into the cells where the inmates were housed - tiny cells with a window so high that you wouldn’t be able to see anything other than a line of blue during the day. I dread to think of the nights they had to spend there. As you climbed to the tower and walked out into the arms of the prison, you realise that this was an architectural gem but a dampener of the human spirit.  As you gazed into the distance, you saw islands dotting the fringes, the blue sea for miles and a holiday planner’s dreams come true. What a contrast to what the inmates must have felt as they were brought here – the very things that define a holiday destination for us today would have spelt torture and death for them. What was commendable was their spirit of life in spite of knowing the odds against them.

Truly Cellular

Earlier in the day as we were on the ferry, the gentleman I met from Holland asked me a question – Do I hate the British for what they have done to us, as a country, as a people? At that time I had replied a very firm No stating that the important fact was that now we were free and that was key. But after the visit to the Jail, my heart cries to answer differently. I wonder if I ever will be to answer so resolutely ever again. Hate might a very strong word but it’s important we don’t forget what happened. It’s important that we realise the extent of sacrifice and resolve our earlier generations had and work hard to keep the pride alive.

We slowly made our way back to Aunty Noble’s house. Emotions were high as we both dealt with the experience of the visit to the Cellular Jail in our own way. 

The rest of the gang soon arrived. Once they were settled into the rooms, we had a quick dinner and then the Gang of Girls gossiped the night away, after deciding to spend the next day exploring some more.

Look out Port Blair – here we come! 

Our “Been There, Done That” Tips –

• Make sure you have your ferry tickets ready. Its difficult to get them on the spot.
• Try and fix up the return trip on the Sea Plane. Its an awesome experience with the plane doing a detour of 30 mins over India’s dormant volcano. The sea plane is the only way to see the volcano as access to the island has been restricted
• Check the timings of the Cellular jail. The jail is closed on Mondays
• There are two sound and light shows at the Jail. If you are Indian, the Hindi one is highly recommended.
• The naval museum closes early so make sure you are there on time.       

Amazing Andamans - Day 4

Biking in the Rain

This was our morning to relax… so we decided to leisurely walk to the Kala Pathar beach , while we could not get to Kala Pathar, we did get some interesting frames on the way……. 

Looking through

A spectrum of colours

Just Born

And after a leisurely lunch, we had an idea to hire bikes, head out and explore the island. While the plan was being put in place, people started dropping out and then it was just the four of us intrepid explorers – Ankit and me on one bike; Arsh and Medha on the other. Armed with a map of the island in hand, we set off to the petrol bunk to fuel up. As we rode, we passed green fields, little houses and people who looked so content and at peace with themselves. As we crossed the hilly terrain, we reached the crossroads between Shyam Nagar and Krishna Nagar wherein lay the road to Radhanagar. And then the heavens opened up – what started as a slight drizzle went on to become a heavy downpour and visibility was soon reduced to a few feet. We finally hit the beach and it was amazing.

The spray combined with the rain changed the landscape. Medha and I were left wondering if it was the same beach we spent a day at, two days back. What was a lovely crescent of blue sea and green trees was now just a haze with the sun struggling to shine through. The sunset died a lame death and we started on our way back.

The rain had gotten worse and the potholes that were easily visible were now filled with water. The trees and the hills that had drawn calls of wonder moments ago were now creepy and looked very ominous. The rain began striking you like little needles and we driving with almost zero visibility. As cars, buses and jeeps overtake us, we were scared and grateful. Scared of being run over or off the road. Grateful for the light their headlights threw our way. Soaked to the skin, we constantly spoke to each other on the bike – each rider with their pillion making sure we remained on the edge of the road where the tar had the least holes.

Finally, the market drew up ahead and we were back in familiar territory. It was almost like nature knew we were back home and decided to back down the onslaught. The rain stopped and we headed back to the resort. As we looked over our shoulders, the hills were still covered in rain and mist. We were out of the ‘zone’ and were looking forward to a hot shower, dry clothes and a mug of hot, hot chocolate. 

Abstracts from Havelock:

A sign saying “Full Moon Café” is what greets you as you enter Dive India’s Vinnie’s Island property at Havelock. Set within walking distance of the beach, the café is perfect for a bite, to laze away your time, to swap stories of your dives, play board games ,listen to some super awesome music, play with the dogs and cats who share the benches with you or just soak in the ambiance.

A warm welcome & a sense of bonhomie greets you in the café. Everyone knows each other and come together at all times of the day. The employees are courteous and go out of their way to make you feel like one of them.

The food is delicious and you want to stay on, if only to sample the entire menu. The use of fresh local produce and lip smacking spices gives you an array of mind boggling flavors to deal with and you are left with a sense of well being at the end of every meal. The fish and prawns leave a longing for more and the vegetarian dishes also stand up against their non-vegetarian counterparts with style.

The cuisines are diverse – Indian, Chinese, Bengali, Continental and a divine array of beverages. The home-made desserts  are a perfect way to end every meal (I loved them so much; I started my meal with them too). Each of us had our own favorites and Deepak would bring them to us with a huge grin the moment we raised our hands.

The evenings saw groups of different people drifting in to be part of the café. The dive instructors in one corner – sharing stories, briefs and making the lists for the next day; groups who experienced diving for the first time (like some of us) retelling the experience and showing off the war wounds; experienced divers who spoke about diving with sharks, barracudas, octopus and visitors from nearby resorts who would come, drawn in, just for the food and the ambiance.

Sam & Frodo would walk around the tables gladly plonking themselves wherever they would find a hand willing to pet them or scratch them behind their ears.

Superlative food, stimulating conversations, amazing music and a warm and welcoming group of employees makes Full Moon Café the place to eat at Havelock.

Bon Appetit!

Sam & Frodo

One of the first sights that you see when you enter Vinnie’s Island, are these two gorgeous dogs, who answer to Sam and Frodo, lolling away on the grass beneath the coconut palms near the dive shop. One glance at them and they welcome you with the warmest of wags. You have no choice but to kneel and give them a good backrub.

Ready to run into the sea at the moment’s notice, Sam and Frodo are always lingering near the shoreline waiting for anyone to motion towards the sea.

Whether you woke at unearthly hours to view the sunshine or you were strolling along the beach or just resting under the stars – Sam and Frodo were always around for company. The joke around the resort was that the only time either of them were 100% dry was between 05.45 and 06.00 in the morning. They were there to welcome you after your dive and to sit by you as you relived the day at the café.

Sam would have a quizzical expression if you stood on the beach – almost wondering why you weren’t doing anything! Walk, swim, dive – anything but stand still. He would first stand next to you then politely nudge and then finally collapse in a heap of dog pushing you slowly towards the water.

Hugs and petting are easy for them as everyone on the resort vie for their attention. They would stand guard outside the tents as each one was being cleaned. What a boss to have! Refusing to move till they felt a good job was done.

One of my best and saddest memories of the trip was when we were set to leave. As I turned to see the resort one last time, I see Sam making his way to the front gate. He walked up and just stood by me allowing me to say my good byes one more time and then he went and sat by the gate till we finished loading the auto with our myriad baggages. There he remained till we were out of sight.

So long Sam & Frodo! See you soon!